| Forum Home > General Training, Tips and/or Tools > Sit on retrieve | ||
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Moderator Posts: 400 |
Hopefully someone will be able to help me over a very small issue I can't seem to get past with Reah. I am teaching her a (semi) formal obedience retrieve with a dumbell for her end of term assessment. So far it's all gone well, basically teaching her to deliver the item to hand using a clicker and treats for a reward.
I've now gotten to the point where she will sit steady while I throw the atrticle, send her, she will fly out, pick it up, coming racing back and put it in my hand. Occassionally she forgets the last bit so I have been witholding the click for longer and longer.
The one problem I have (and have had with all my dogs!) is getting her to sit for the present and not drop the dumbell. I think it's pretty common but sit = something different and she will immediately drop it. I could probably teach her a hold command but I don't really want to overface with too many commands (verbal or hand) so I wondered if there were any other suggestions? | |
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Member Posts: 948 |
I wonder can you get her to sit at a distance of say five yards out from you ? | |
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................................................................................................... “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.” Charles Darwin ..................................................................................................
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Posts: 366 |
Hi Is it essential that she sits for the delivery? Some cockers do it naturally, most do not and prefer to present the retrieve standing. Personally, if the sitting present was not essential I would not make an issue about it, after all they are not Labradors and you can cause problems elsewhere by insisting on it. . If the sitting present is essential in your view then you have really answered your own question, teach her the hold. I would not worry too much about introducing another command I am sure she will understand what you want. If you do teach her to hold on you will probably have to go back a few steps. One caveat to this reply. We would not confuse a retrieve with a reward as it does tend to produce problems but that is just our way. Fiona | |
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Site Owner Posts: 169 |
I would teach the hold, the extra command can be dropped eventually. | |
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Moderator Posts: 400 |
Okay, hanging my head in shame, I didn't give her enough credit! I spent about 10 minutes working on this last night and after a couple of fab retrieves without a sit I simply asked her to sit as she came in and if she dropped it witheld the click and threw the dumbell out again. Within about 3 goes she had it. Not 100% but about 90% so will do a little more a couple of nights this week. These dogs amaze me - they are so bliming quick to pick things up and work through what you want rather than switching off. | |
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Member Posts: 45 |
I agree with teaching 'hold'. I always do this with all my dogs (whatever the breed) as it gives me that final good delivery. I teach this at a very young age (Wynnie is doing it now at 12 weeks) Keep it as something 'special' between the two of you; keep a separate article - something she likes (I am using a cats toy - a soft mini duck )- and teach the hold completey separately to everything else. This teaches her what 'hold' means and because you are not using a dummy it detaches the article from any problems which might occur and you wont know if there are problems until you do it! If you see what I mean. wynnie loves our time doing 'hold' and always wants more but I do it twice and then the toy is put away - definitely not to be used as a play article. Hope this helps. | |
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Member Posts: 45 |
PS Meant to add that I dont insist on a 'sit' to begin with but as the 'hold' is static Wynnie (and most pups I have had) seem to sit anyway. I do insist on a 'sit' delivery once their basic training is going well but once the dog is experienced in the shooting field I dont insist on the 'sit'. For me it just gives a little extra control when training basics. | |
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Member Posts: 986 |
Having seen how excited Ollie gets retrieving game I doubt he could sit down such is the extent of the wagging rear end (in fact he wags up to his neck):lol: I don't feel the need for a sit on retrieve in the normal shooting field, and I am not aware of a Spaniel ever being penalised for it in a trial though I'm not a judge of course. Delivery to hand yes, but sitting, no. | |
--Every time I take my dog out for a lesson, he never fails to teach me something!!!!!!!Neill
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Member Posts: 45 |
Yes Neil, I agree. In the field its not necessary as long as the delivery is tenderly to hand however, when training and teaching a young dog/pup I think it helps to get a delivery to hand with a sit. Belts and braces etc. I only do this after having had, in my early days of working gundogs, one or two with delivery problems. Taught to hold with a sit and I dont appear to have this problem any more. I have 'wrigglers/waggers too, thank goodness as I love to see a dog so happy to deliver. | |
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Moderator Posts: 400 |
This is for obedience rather than in the field.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. | |
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Administrator Posts: 487 |
In the field when picking up there isnt enough time for a sit on the return with a bird, as soon as they are back with one they are out for another | |
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Member Posts: 948 |
I guessed that, so JLA what course are you doing? | |
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................................................................................................... “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.” Charles Darwin ..................................................................................................
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Moderator Posts: 400 |
She's just working towards her advanced award at our obedience club that we help run. She's actually an agility pup rather than obedience but I wanted to get her Gold KC this year and the two went hand in hand. | |
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Member Posts: 948 |
Just wondering how do you get on with the off lead and the loose lead walking exercises? | |
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................................................................................................... “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.” Charles Darwin ..................................................................................................
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Moderator Posts: 400 |
Actually pretty good, Reah's very people focused and actually works with my husband in this, she's got a strong watch command which we use during heel if we think we are loosing her.
Only bit that a 'proper' obedience person would say she needs to be better at would be closer to the leg as she tends to walk a bit out and then come in for a halt or down so she's not consistent but I am not that bothered :D.
Actually I think she is probably better off lead than on but I think that is pretty common. Do you do something similar? | |
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Member Posts: 948 |
I don't do obedience as such, I am just interested in how an obedience person gets a good heel with a spaniel. The dogs are rarely on a lead, I just cue and reinforce the heel position, it works for a short time, but then the spaniel nose kicks in. There used to be an idea going around a few years ago that if you want a spaniel to heel put it on a lead, but that concept must allow for a pulling, I prefer to teach off lead and make some allowence to nature, so long as the dog does not run in, does not venture more than a couple of yards max and comes to heel when called. | |
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................................................................................................... “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.” Charles Darwin ..................................................................................................
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Member Posts: 986 |
Heeling has always been "fun" with Ollie, and I know I'm not alone with this with WCS.
On a slip lead if he's excited it's pretty hopeless, if he is in normal mode he is acceptable but for good lead heeling the only thing that really works is his halter lead.
Off lead he is better, though needs constant watching. I was advised that heeling for a spaniel is OK providing he stays with a semi-circle about a yard in radius behind me. problem is I don't have eyes in the back of my head (a fundamental flaw for a Spaniel man
This would not be good enough for formal obedience but for practical working purposes it has worked out fine. | |
--Every time I take my dog out for a lesson, he never fails to teach me something!!!!!!!Neill
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Moderator Posts: 400 |
Outside of 'formal' obedience I don't insist on a close heel, but a 'with me' which means be within a couple of feet of me on my left or right but don't keep switching. When we go to agility I have even be known to let her pull on a lead as she is so excited. Oddly though, and I guess it's situational (she has a different lead for obedience) she rarely pullls or walks too far ahead / behind when we are our obedience hall. | |
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Member Posts: 986 |
Leads can certainly make a difference. I know a chap you uses his Cocker both as a gundog and a tracking dog for deer stalking. He uses a slip lead for the former and a tracking harness for the latter, and the dog knows what he's supposed to do. | |
--Every time I take my dog out for a lesson, he never fails to teach me something!!!!!!!Neill
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Site Owner Posts: 169 |
Off lead heel tends to come quicker as the handler takes more notice of the dog and works harder as they are not on lead. When they are on lead we become a bit complacent as we know they can't go anywhere!! | |
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